Coastal flood hazard zones and the design of coastal defenses are often devised using the maximum
recorded water level or a ‘‘design’’ event such as the 100 year return level, usually projected from
observed extremes. Despite technological advances driving more consistent instrumental records of waves
and water levels, the observational...
Extreme water levels generating flooding in estuarine and coastal environments are often driven by compound events, where many individual processes such as waves, storm surge, streamflow, and tides coincide. Despite this, extreme water levels are typically modeled in isolated open-coast or estuarine environments, potentially mischaracterizing the true risk of flooding...
The wave-induced velocity field in the nearshore is composed of contributions from incident wind waves (f > 0.05 Hz), surface infragravity waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl < (σ²/gβ) and shear waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl > σ²/gβ), where ƒ is the frequency, σ = 2πf, k is the...
A form of the linear, inviscid shallow water wave equation which includes alongshore uniform, but cross-shore variable, longshore currents and bathymetry is presented. This formulation provides a continuum between gravity waves (either leaky or edge waves) on a longshore current, and the recently discovered shear waves. In this paper we...
Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore
beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during
February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During
a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation...
Probabilistic flood hazard assessment is a promising methodology for estuarine risk assessment but currently remains limited by prohibitively long simulation times. This study addresses this problem through the development of an emulator, or surrogate model, which replaces the simulator (in this case the coupled ADCIRC+SWAN model) with a statistical representation...
Many habitat selection studies have focused on the importance of spatiotemporal scales and sample size, yet often hidden within is a trade-off between using more animal locations versus more predictive covariates. Few have evaluated the outcome of choosing between these two different paths even though the trade-off can have significant...
Planetary or Rossby waves are the predominant way in which the ocean adjusts on long (year to decade) timescales. The motion of long planetary waves is westward, at speeds ≥1 cm s⁻¹ . Until recently, very few experimental investigations of such waves were possible because of scarce data. The advent...
The authors have used a spectral, primitive equation mechanistic model of the stratosphere and mesosphere
to simulate observed stratospheric flow through the winters of 1991–92 and 1994–95 by forcing the model at
100 hPa with observed geopotential height. The authors assess the model’s performance quantitatively by
comparing the simulations with...
During the discovery and description of seven New Zealand methane seep sites, an infaunal assemblage dominated by ampharetid polychaetes was found in association with high seabed methane emission. This ampharetid-bed assemblage had a mean density of 57,000 ± 7800 macrofaunal individuals m⁻² and a maximum wet biomass of 274 g...