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  • Bars, bumps, and holes : models for the generation of complex beach topography

    Creator:
    Holman, R. A. and Bowen, A. J.
    Abstract:
    In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
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    Bars, Bumps, and Holes' Models for the Generation of Complex Beach Topography R. A. HOLMAN AND A. J

  • Infragravity energy in the surf zone

    Creator:
    Holman, R. A.
    Abstract:
    Field measurements of onshore and longshore velocities in the surf zone have been obtained on Martinique Beach, Nova Scotia, for the purpose of investigating the dynamics of the infragravity band (0.003- 0.03 Hz) of the spectra. A total of35 data runs were obtained during a 1-week period. Of particular interest...
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    cusps, at. Geophys. Res., 80, 2997-3012, 1975. Holman, R. A., Infragravity waves on beaches, Ph.D

  • Longshore structure of infragravity wave motions

    Creator:
    Holman, R. A. and Bowen, A. J.
    Abstract:
    Synchronous runup records were collected from 14 locations spaced irregularly over a 7 km stretch of a low-slope beach. The significant runup height, herein defined as the significant vertical excursion of water level at the shoreline, was typically 2 m, 60% of the incident significant wave height at the breakpoint....
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    Wave Motions R. A. HOLMAN School of Oceanography, Oregon State University A. J. BOWEN Department

  • The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology

    Creator:
    Lippmann, T. C. and Holman, R. A.
    Abstract:
    The spatial and temporal variability of nearshore sand bar morphology is quantified using a unique data set spanning 2 years. The data consist of daily time exposure images of incident wave breaking on an open coast sandy beach which may be used to infer bar morphology (Lippmann and Holman, 1989)....
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    Temporal Variability of Sand Bar Morphology T. C. LIPPMANN AND R. A. HOLMAN College of Oceanography

  • cBathy Bathymetry Estimation in the Mixed Wave-Current Domain of a Tidal Estuary

    Creator:
    Holman, Rob and Stanley, John
    Abstract:
    This is an author's peer-reviewed final manuscript, as accepted by the publisher. The published article is copyrighted by Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and can be found at: https://doi.org/10.2112/SI65-235.1
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    Tidal Estuary Holman, R., & Stanley, J. (2013). cBathy bathymetry estimation in the mixed wave-current

  • Setup and swash on a natural beach

    Creator:
    Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
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    ., 87(C1), 483491, 1982. Holman, R. A., Infragravity energy in the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 87(C7

  • Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current : 1. theory

    Creator:
    Bowen, A. J. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    A new class of nearshore waves based on the shear instability of a steady longshore current is discussed. The dynamics depend on the conservation of potential vorticity but with the background vorticity field, traditionally the role of Coriolis in larger scale flows, supplied by the shear structure of the longshore...
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    University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada R. A. HOLMAN College of Oceanography, Oregon State University

  • Shoreline variability from days to decades : results of long-term video imaging

    Creator:
    Pianca, C., Holman, R., and Siegle, E.
    Abstract:
    The present work characterizes the time-space scales of variability and forcing dependencies of a unique 26 year record of daily to hourly shoreline data from a steep beach at Duck, North Carolina. Shoreline positions over a 1500 m alongshore span were estimated using a new algorithm called ASLIM based on...
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    imaging Pianca, C., Holman, R., & Siegle, E. (2015). Shoreline variability from days to decades: Results

  • The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach

    Creator:
    Guedes, R. M. C., Bryan, K. R., Coco, G., and Holman, R. A.
    Abstract:
    Swash hydrodynamics were investigated on an intermediate beach using runup data obtained from video images. Under mild, near-constant, offshore wave conditions, the presence of a sandbar and the tidally controlled water depth over its crest determined whether most of the incoming waves broke before reaching the shoreline. This forced a...
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    secondary waves. Citation: Guedes, R. M. C., K. R. Bryan, G. Coco, and R. A. Holman (2011), The effects of

  • Swash zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of bore-generated turbulence

    Creator:
    Puleo, J. A., Beach, R. A., Holman, Robert A., and Allen, J. S.
    Abstract:
    A study of swash zone sediment transport was conducted at Gleneden Beach, Oregon during February 25-28, 1994. The data collected included suspended sediment concentration (SSC), sea surface elevation, and velocity (initially 4 and 8 cm above the bed) at three cross-shore locations within the swash zone spanning high tides. Ensemble...
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