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  • Infragravity energy in the surf zone

    Creator:
    Holman, R. A.
    Abstract:
    Field measurements of onshore and longshore velocities in the surf zone have been obtained on Martinique Beach, Nova Scotia, for the purpose of investigating the dynamics of the infragravity band (0.003- 0.03 Hz) of the spectra. A total of35 data runs were obtained during a 1-week period. Of particular interest...
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    set of values 6444 HOLMAN: INFRAGRAVITY ENERGY IN THE SURF ZONE M,(xi, f') -- u•(xi, f'). The

  • Estimation of wave phase speed and nearshore bathymetry from video imagery

    Creator:
    Stockdon, Hilary F. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    A new remote sensing technique based on video image processing has been developed for the estimation of nearshore bathymetry. The shoreward propagation of waves is measured using pixel intensity time series collected at a cross-shore array of locations using remotely operated video cameras. The incident band is identified, and the...
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    , 2000 Estimation of wave phase speed and nearshore bathymetry from video imagery Hilary F. Stockdon

  • Bars, bumps, and holes : models for the generation of complex beach topography

    Creator:
    Holman, R. A. and Bowen, A. J.
    Abstract:
    In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
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    EsCDp 4 (17) ß __. //03/91 iY= W 3•r 462 HOLMAN AND BOWEN: BARS, BUMPS, AND HOLES We take fi to

  • Frequency of daily tooth brushing: predictors of change in 9- to 11-year old US children

    Creator:
    Polk, D. E., Geng, M., Levy, S., Koerber, A., and Flay, B. R.
    Abstract:
    OBJECTIVE: To investigate whether an increase in daily tooth brushing frequency in children was predicted by either a) having a strong intention to brush twice a day or b) their parents receiving information about their new caries experience. BASIC RESEARCH DESIGN: Secondary data analyses were conducted on two waves of...
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    (3), 136-140. doi:10.1922/CDH_3321Polk05 10.1922/CDH_3321Polk05 F D I World Dental Press Ltd

  • The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology

    Creator:
    Lippmann, T. C. and Holman, R. A.
    Abstract:
    The spatial and temporal variability of nearshore sand bar morphology is quantified using a unique data set spanning 2 years. The data consist of daily time exposure images of incident wave breaking on an open coast sandy beach which may be used to infer bar morphology (Lippmann and Holman, 1989)....
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    Temporal Variability of Sand Bar Morphology T. C. LIPPMANN AND R. A. HOLMAN College of Oceanography

  • Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope

    Creator:
    Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
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    : WAVE ENERGY SATURATION 11,941 4 •-2 LU-3 W-4 -,5 STATION LOCATIONS - - - --f 10 7 11 8 13

  • Infragravity waves over a natural barred profile

    Creator:
    Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
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    , C., A. H. Sallenger, R. A. Holman, and W. A. Birkemeier, A comprehensive experiment on storm

  • Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current : 1. theory

    Creator:
    Bowen, A. J. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    A new class of nearshore waves based on the shear instability of a steady longshore current is discussed. The dynamics depend on the conservation of potential vorticity but with the background vorticity field, traditionally the role of Coriolis in larger scale flows, supplied by the shear structure of the longshore...
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    Research Council, Canada. REFERENCES Munk, W., F. Snodgrass, and F. Gilbert, Long waves on the

  • Setup and swash on a natural beach

    Creator:
    Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
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    . HOLMAN School of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis A. H. SALLENGER, JR. U.S

  • The statistical distribution of swash maxima on natural beaches

    Creator:
    Holland, K. T. and Holman, Robert A.
    Abstract:
    Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins (1956) describe the statistical distribution of maxima that would result from the linear superposition of random, Gaussian waves. The distribution function depends solely upon the relative width of the power spectrum and root-mean-square value of the process time series. Runup field data from three experiments are presented...
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    , New York, 1986. Birkemeier, W. A., K. K. Hathaway, J. M. Smith, C. F. Baron, and M.W. Leffler