Index Catalog // ScholarsArchive@OSU

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Barred Profile ASBURY H. $ALLENGER, JR. U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia ROBERT A. HOLMAN

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Saturation on a Natural Beach of Variable Slope ASBURY H. SALLENGER, JR. • Branch of Pacific Marine

Creator:: Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
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Full Text:: . HOLMAN School of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis A. H. SALLENGER, JR. U.S

Creator:: Long, Joseph W. and Özkan-Haller, H. Tuba
Abstract:: The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that wave height variations associated with undulations in the canyon contours cause rip current circulation cells with...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Joseph W. Long and H. Tuba Özkan-Haller College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, Michael H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: longshore currents C. C. Chickadel, R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich College of Oceanic and Atmospheric

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, M. H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: longshore currents C. C. Chickadel, R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich College of Oceanic and Atmospheric

Creator:: Garcia-Medina, Gabriel, Özkan-Haller, H. Tuba, Ruggiero, Peter, and Oskamp, Jeffrey
Abstract:: An operational inner-shelf wave forecasting system was implemented for the Oregon and southwest Washington coast in the U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW). High-resolution wave forecasts are useful for navigational planning, identifying wave energy resources, providing information for site-specific coastal flood models, and having an informed recreational beach user group, among other...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: , Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon H. TUBA €OZKAN-HALLER AND PETER RUGGIERO College of Earth

Creator:: Howd, Peter A., Oltman-Shay, Joan, and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: The wave-induced velocity field in the nearshore is composed of contributions from incident wind waves (f > 0.05 Hz), surface infragravity waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl < (σ²/gβ) and shear waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl > σ²/gβ), where ƒ is the frequency, σ = 2πf, k is the...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Asbury Sallenger, Jr., U.S. Geological Survey) was located 3 m south of the central current meter. The

Creator:: Dodds, Walter K., Robinson, Christopher T., Gaiser, Evelyn E., Hansen, Gretchen J. A., Powell, Heather, Smith, Joseph M., Morse, Nathaniel B., Johnson, Sherri L., Gregory, Stanley V., Bell, Tisza, Kratz, Timothy K., and McDowell, William H.
Abstract:: Long-term research on freshwater ecosystems provides insights that can be difficult to obtain from other approaches. Widespread monitoring of ecologically relevant water-quality parameters spanning decades can facilitate important tests of ecological principles. Unique long-term data sets and analytical tools are increasingly available, allowing for powerful and synthetic analyses across sites....
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Full Text:: , SHERRI L. JOHNSON, STANLEY V. GREGORY, TISZA BELL, TIMOTHY K. KRATZ, AND WILLIAM H. MCDOWELL Long-term

Creator:: Stockdon, Hilary F. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A new remote sensing technique based on video image processing has been developed for the estimation of nearshore bathymetry. The shoreward propagation of waves is measured using pixel intensity time series collected at a cross-shore array of locations using remotely operated video cameras. The incident band is identified, and the...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: (wave height H _<1 m), the performance of the technique across the entire profile improved to 6% (29

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