This paper describes a method for measuring nearshore ocean wave characteristics with a land-based, long-period vertical seismometer. The wavemeter system has proven to be highly reliable and produces continuous wave observations at low cost. It is now operational at six Coast Guard stations along the Oregon and Washington coasts; data...
Observations between 20 and 40 m depth were made with a towed thermostor
chain in the North Pacific. Despite the rapid vertical variation
of buoyancy frequency, spectra of isotherm displacements are in fair
agreement with other observations and with the Garrett-Munk model. The
spectra show evidence of a shoulder and...
The response on the continental shelf of a baroclinic ocean to
driving by an alongshore coastal wind stress and by barotropic and
baroclinic wind forced interior motions is studied as a function of
latitude. The relative excitation of continental shelf waves and
internal Kelvin waves is studied.
The response of...
Abstract— A highly idealized model of an ocean-fjord system, in which the tide is forced astronomically by the gravitational force of the moon, is used to study effects of localized tidal energy extraction on regional and global tides. The modeled system is energetically complete in the sense that the model...
Ocean waves propagating over cohesionless seabed deposits
produce cyclic shear stresses within the deposit. Under certain
conditions these stresses may cause a progressive build-up of pore
pressure. Pore pressure accumulation can result in liquefaction or
a substantial decrease in the effective stress with attendant large
deformations of the seabed deposit....