This paper presents a comprehensive set of velocity and suspended sediment observations in the nearshore wave bottom boundary layer, collected during the Duck94 field experiment on the Outer Banks of the North Carolina coast. Cross-shore velocity measurements in the wave bottom boundary layer were made using five hot film anemometers,...
Video measurements of wave runup were collected during extreme storm conditions characterized by energetic long swells (peak period of 16.4 s and offshore height up to 6.4 m) impinging on steep foreshore beach slopes (0.05–0.08). These conditions induced highly dissipative and saturated conditions over the low-sloping surf zone while the...
Field observations of turbulence and sediment suspension in the nearshore wave bottom boundary layer obtained during the Duck94 field experiment on the North Caroline coast showed the generation of near-bed turbulence to be highly intermittent. The intermittent nature of the flow was examined by applying homogeneous isotropic turbulence laws over...
Four years of daily time exposure images from an embayed beach were examined to
study the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel
system. A total of 5271 rip channels was observed on 782 days. Occurrence statistics
showed no evidence of the preferred location pattern...
Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore
beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during
February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During
a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation...
Runup kinematics on a gently sloping natural beach are examined with detailed measurements from video images, resistance wires deployed at five elevations (between 5 and 25 cm) above and parallel to the beach face, and pressure sensors located in the inner surf zone. As suggested in a previous study comparing...
A study of swash zone sediment transport was conducted at Gleneden
Beach, Oregon during February 25-28, 1994. The data collected included suspended
sediment concentration (SSC), sea surface elevation, and velocity (initially 4 and 8
cm above the bed) at three cross-shore locations within the swash zone spanning high
tides. Ensemble...