Successful prediction of nearshore sediment migration is important in determining the vulnerability of a coastline. During energetic wave climates (storm events) sediment rapidly erodes from beaches and is deposited offshore. In subsequent milder wave conditions, the sediment migrates shoreward, accreting on the beach and helping to protect the coastline. It...
The computational identification of gene Transcription Start Sites (TSSs) can provide insights into the regulation and function of genes without performing expensive experiments, particularly in organisms with incomplete annotations. High-resolution general-purpose TSS prediction remains a challenging problem, with little recent progress on the identification and differentiation of TSSs which are...
The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that rip current circulation cells exist with alongshore spacing of O(1OOm) even though the nearshore bathymetry displayed...
Plant-pollinator mutualisms are one of the most prevalent and economically important mutualisms in nature. Like many other ecological systems, plant-pollinator communities are threatened by anthropogenic activity, both directly (e.g., habitat conversion and fragmentation) and indirectly (e.g., climate change). While we are aware of many of the activities that adversely impact...
National Geographic’s June 2018 magazine titled “Planet or Plastic?” drew attention to a growing problem throughout the world: ocean plastic. The eight plastic-related articles in the magazine are an example of science communication as a critical method of not only disseminating information but also raising awareness of the marine debris...
In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of
drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two
waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
We investigate, theoretically and experimentally, the problem of modeling depth-integrated (2DH) surf zone circulation on an alongshore-nonuniform natural beach, with waves approaching from an arbitrary angle. An approximate theoretical model is developed, which captures the important effect of advection in the alongshore dynamics, and shows that a nondimensional parameter Re[subscript]s...
This is an author's peer-reviewed final manuscript, as accepted by the publisher. The published article is copyrighted by Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and can be found at: https://doi.org/10.2112/SI65-235.1
Simple parameterizations of dune erosion are necessary for forecasting erosion potential prior to an oncoming storm. Dune erosion may be parameterized in terms of the elevation of the total water level (composed of surge, tide, and wave runup) above the dune base and period of exposure of the dune to...