Theoretical b:::-eaking criteria for progressive surface gravity waves
are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these breaking criteria.
The measurements of Komar and Simmons are presented here for the first
time. Only three theoretical breaking criteria have been...
The FRONTS-80 experiment is a joint investigation supported by the
Office of Naval Research (ONR) as the lead agency with additional contributions
from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA),
the National Space Administration (NASA), the U.S. Navy and the Canadian
Forces. Support from these agencies is gratefully acknowledged. We...
A real-time data acquisition/central system has been developed for
environmental monitoring and research. The basic elements of the system
are a large instrumented spar buoy, a computer which controls data acquisition
through a telemetry link and simultaneously files and analyzes the data,
and the investigator who prescribes appropriate sets of...
This report covers the first full year of operation of our gammaray
spectrometry facility. A part of the contract period was devoted
to calibration of the instrument, and therefore, a brief report on this
procedure is included.
Most of the period of my visit was spent working in the turbulence
section of the Institute of Atmospheric Physics. Brief visits were made
to the Institute of Oceanology, Academy of Sciences in Moscow, to some
departments of Moscow State University, and to one department of the
Institute of Oceanology...
Various methods of presenting and mathematically describing particle
size distribution are explained and evaluated. The hyperbolic
distribution is found to be the most practical but the more complex
characteristic vector analysis is the most sensitive to changes in
the shape of the particle size distributions.
Particle size distribution, nutrient concentrations,...
This report documents the various subroutines in general use by the Oregon
State University Geophysics group. Included are subroutines for plotting
and date and time conversion and arithmetic functions and control
functions.
A numerical model was developed which predicts the dynamic
response of a single mooring line and a buoy of forty feet diameter
to sinusoidal waves, wind and current in all deep waters. All forces
and reactions were considered to be in one plane.
The basic equations for the mooring line...
Bayocean sand spit lies along the northern Oregon coast
approximately 70 miles south of the Columbia River. Work was
begun on the construction of a large recreational resort on the spit
in the early 1900's. At the outset, the resort appeared to have a
promising future. However, a three-year delay...