Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
The longshore variability of the coastal response to hurricanes may be examined within the framework of a storm-impact scaling model that compares spatially-variable beach morphology and fluid forcing. The relative elevations of dune height and storm-induced water levels are used to define three impact regimes (swash, collision, and overwash), within...
Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
Published June 1991. Facts and recommendations in this publication may no longer be valid. Please look for up-to-date information in the OSU Extension Catalog: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog
Micropaleontological data have been analyzed through mathematical
and statistical procedures, in order to: (1) establish the distribution
pattern of radiolarian assemblages in the surface sediments,
(2) establish the relationship of these assemblages with oceanographic
variables, (3) determine the faunal composition down-core with
respect to the faunal surface pattern, and (4)...
The role of insect herbivores in the nutrient cycling dynamics of forest ecosystems remains poorly understood. Although past research in herbivory has focused primarily on the deleterious effects that insects can have on tree growth and mortality, the overall effects of herbivory are more complex. Herbivores have the potential to...
Using wave and wind data from nearby buoys and gauges, real time
kinematic global positioning system (RTK-GPS) and light detection and ranging
(lidar) topographic survey data, and a robust video record, we have quantified the
Large Scale Coastal Behavior (LSCB) of a dissipative end member beach in the
Pacific Northwest....
The U.S. Pacific Northwest is home to one of the most extreme wave climates in the world with waves of 10 m in height arriving to the coast approximately each year. With an average water temperature of 12℃, the beaches in the region are too cold to go on a...
A new set of data from a large-scale sand bar migration experiment is presented. During this experiment, two sandbars were generated. One of the bar was generated by the action of undertow, and sediment moved offshore. The other bar was generated by the shoreward movement of sediment coming from the...
The Cocos Gap is a deeper portion, or saddle, of the Cocos
Ridge and forms part of the western boundary of the Panama Basing
It is probably typical of saddles within most submarine ridges, In
order to determine the mechanisms controlling sediment dispersal,
the nature and sources of the sediments...
The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that rip current circulation cells exist with alongshore spacing of O(1OOm) even though the nearshore bathymetry displayed...
This thesis contains a manuscript describing the implementation of a high resolution wave forecasting model for the coasts of Washington and Oregon. The purpose of this project was to advance the wave predictive capabilities of the states of Oregon and the southwest part of Washington by including the effects of...
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H. Tuba Özkan-Haller
This thesis contains a manuscript describing the implementation of a
A new technique for determining the amount of opal in deep-sea
sediments of any age is described. Using a normative calculation, a
portion of the analytical silica concentration of sediments is subtracted
as non-biogenic in proportion to the concentration of aluminum in the
sample. The ratio of SiO₂:Al₂O₃ used to...
The surf zone exhibits large energetic signals from wave shoaling and subsequent dissipation due to breaking, forcing circulation. The bathymetry responds to the wave and wave-induced circulation with the growth, transport, and destruction of large scale bathymetric features, such as mega ripples and sand bars. There is an obvious fluctuation...
Coastal flood hazard zones and the design of coastal defenses are often devised using either the maximum recorded total water level (TWL) or a 'design' event such as the 100-year return-level flood, usually projected from observed extreme events. Despite technological advances driving more consistent instrumental records of wave heights and...
Waves are the primary input of energy in the nearshore region, and together with the currents forced through the transfer of momentum that occurs during the wave breaking process they are the principal mechanism for sediment transport in the nearshore. The basic physics of waves and currents are thought to...