In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of
drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two
waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
A methodology is described for assimilating observations in a steady state twodimensional
horizontal (2‐DH) model of nearshore hydrodynamics (waves and currents),
using an ensemble‐based statistical estimator. In this application, we treat bathymetry as a
model parameter, which is subject to a specified prior uncertainty. The statistical estimator
uses state augmentation...
This paper presents a comprehensive set of velocity and suspended sediment observations in the nearshore wave bottom boundary layer, collected during the Duck94 field experiment on the Outer Banks of the North Carolina coast. Cross-shore velocity measurements in the wave bottom boundary layer were made using five hot film anemometers,...
Field measurements of onshore and longshore velocities in the surf zone have been obtained on Martinique
Beach, Nova Scotia, for the purpose of investigating the dynamics of the infragravity band (0.003-
0.03 Hz) of the spectra. A total of35 data runs were obtained during a 1-week period. Of particular interest...
Long-term (>years) bathymetric data sets collected in six multiple near-shore sandbar systems were analyzed with complex empirical orthogonal function analysis to quantify intersite differences and similarities in cyclic offshore progressive bar behavior. The observations came from a 37-year annually sampled data set of four regions along the Dutch coast (spanning...
Synchronous runup records were collected from 14 locations spaced irregularly over a 7 km stretch of
a low-slope beach. The significant runup height, herein defined as the significant vertical excursion of
water level at the shoreline, was typically 2 m, 60% of the incident significant wave height at the
breakpoint....
Four years of daily time exposure images from an embayed beach were examined to
study the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel
system. A total of 5271 rip channels was observed on 782 days. Occurrence statistics
showed no evidence of the preferred location pattern...
Runup kinematics on a gently sloping natural beach are examined with detailed measurements from video images, resistance wires deployed at five elevations (between 5 and 25 cm) above and parallel to the beach face, and pressure sensors located in the inner surf zone. As suggested in a previous study comparing...
The present work characterizes the time-space scales of variability and forcing dependencies of a unique 26 year record of daily to hourly shoreline data from a steep beach at Duck, North Carolina. Shoreline positions over a 1500 m alongshore span were estimated using a new algorithm called ASLIM based on...
Bathymetry is a major factor in determining nearshore and surf zone wave transformation and
currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model predictions. Here
bathymetry is estimated as an uncertain parameter in a data assimilation system, using the ensemble Kalman
filter (EnKF). The system...