Wave and current measurements are presented from a set of laboratory experiments
performed on a fixed barred beach with periodically spaced rip channels using a range of
incident wave conditions. The data demonstrate that the presence of gaps in otherwise
longshore uniform bars dominates the nearshore circulation system for the...
A laboratory experiment involving rip currents generated on a barred beach with periodic rip channels indicates that rip currents contain energetic low-frequency oscillations in the presence of steady wave forcing. An analytic model for the time-averaged flow in a rip current is presented and its linear stability characteristics are investigated...
Rip currents pose a serious danger to visitors of bathing beaches; they are also an important process in surf zone circulation. Haller et al. [2014] demonstrated that shore-based X-band radar can be used to compliment in situ measurements of rip currents. However, little is known of the underlying radar imaging...
In this study, we use a time domain numerical model based on the fully nonlinear extended Boussinesq equations [Wei et al., 1995] to investigate surface wave transformation and breaking-induced nearshore circulation. The energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled by introducing an eddy viscosity term into the momentum equations,...
urface wave transformation and the resulting nearshore circulation along a section of coast with strong alongshore bathymetric gradients outside the surf zone are modeled for a consecutive 4 week time period. The modeled hydrodynamics are compared to in situ measurements of waves and currents collected during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment...
Four years of daily time exposure images from an embayed beach were examined to
study the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel
system. A total of 5271 rip channels was observed on 782 days. Occurrence statistics
showed no evidence of the preferred location pattern...
The focus of the paper is the analysis of the flow in rip current systems generated by
channels in longshore bars on a beach. The horizontal variations of rip current systems are
described through the use of the quasi-three-dimensional nearshore circulation model
SHORECIRC. Model predictions are compared to laboratory measurements...
Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field measurements. For all simulations, modeled quantities are qualitatively or quantitatively compared with available measurements to gain confidence in conclusions derived from the modeled results. In...
Understanding the past, present, and future behavior of our nation's shorelines is vital for sensible coastal management. Localized areas of erosion, termed "erosional hot spots", can shift the shoreline landward threatening coastal infrastructure (Kraus and Galgano, 2001; Stauble and Gravens, 2004; McNinch, 2004). One specific type of erosional hot spot...
Pre-flood (1995), and post-flood (1996) channel stability surveys were conducted on 22 reaches along Oak Creek, Benton County, Oregon in an effort to note if the flood of February 1996 altered the channel and if the channel stability survey that was being used accurately predicted the channels resistance to change...