Offshore wave conditions along the Oregon coastline are measured at a handful of buoy
locations where directional wave information is available. Most of these buoys are located in
deep waters and incoming waves undergo changes as they travel from deep water onto the shelf
where wave energy conversion arrays are...
Models for surface gravity wave propagation in the presence of currents often assume the current field to be quasi-stationary, which implies that the absolute wave frequency is time invariant. However, in the presence of unsteady currents or time-varying water depth, linear wave theory predicts a time variation of the absolute...
This article was originally published online and in print with an incorrect version of Fig. 1. AIP apologizes for this error. All online versions of the article have been corrected.
The ocean deployment of arrays of Wave Energy Converters (WEC arrays) appears likely in the near future, and deployment of offshore wind turbines has already started. These technologies tap into a potential renewable energy resource but also involve complex systems with uncertain environmental consequences that will likely scale with the...
In this research, a three-dimensional coupled wave-circulation model, including meteorological forcing, freshwater inflow and time varying open boundary conditions, for New River Inlet is validated. A mechanistic approach is taken to investigate how various wave-current interaction mechanisms affect the nearshore circulation, plume expansion and surface wave field in the plume...
Interest in validating the eddy covariance (EC) technique under wave-induced flows led to a series of experiments in a 104-m-long large wave flume (LWF) using an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV) and two oxygen microelectrodes (tips ~2 mm apart) mounted on a sturdy tripod. Four additional ADVs positioned within the flume...
A method is presented for estimating bathymetry in a river, based on observations of depth-averaged velocity during steady flow. The estimator minimizes a cost function that combines known information in the form of a prior estimate and measured data (including measurement noise). State augmentation is used to relate the measured...
urface wave transformation and the resulting nearshore circulation along a section of coast with strong alongshore bathymetric gradients outside the surf zone are modeled for a consecutive 4 week time period. The modeled hydrodynamics are compared to in situ measurements of waves and currents collected during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment...
The undertow is one of the most important mechanisms for sediment transport in
nearshore regions. As such, its formulation has been an active subject of research for
at least the past 40 years. Still, much debate persists on the exact nature of the forcing
and theoretical expression of this current....
The impact of assimilation of wave-averaged flow velocities on the bathymetric correction is studied in tests with synthetic (model-generated) data using tangent-linear and adjoint components of a one-way coupled nearshore wave-circulation model. Weakly and strongly nonlinear regimes are considered, featuring energetic unsteady along-beach flows responding to time-independent wave-averaged forcing due...