This paper details a method to compute absolute water velocity profiles from glider-based acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) measurements based on the "shear method" developed for lowered ADCPs. The instrument is a 614-kHz Teledyne RDI ADCP integrated into the body of a Teledyne Webb Research Slocum Glider. Shear is calculated...
Longshore currents are frequently occurring phenomena capable of transporting beach sediments, causing accretion and erosion of the shoreline. Forcing mechanisms are understood and well modeled for cases of alongshore homogeneous and monotonic bathymetry, yet the extension of these models to complex and irregular bathymetry sometimes fails. To test and improve...
This dissertation has focused on the charateristics of bubbles generated by breaking waves and the feedback of wave-current interaction on the forcing mechanism of low frequency wave especially basin seiching wave. For the first study, Optical image capture observations of breaking waves in a laboratory surf zone are presented. The...
A new method is introduced for incorporating bathymetric uncertainty into predictions of nearshore and river flows (i.e., unstratified flows primarily forced by pressure and radiation stress gradients). The method involves the use of the ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF) as a parameter estimation scheme, where the parameter to be estimated is...
When adult spawning and juvenile settling locations of marine fishes are
geographically separated, their early life history stages must rely on transport and
their own behavior to move them toward suitable habitats for successful recruitment
to the juvenile phase. Variations in climate may reduce the availability of spawning
and juvenile...
Recent research conducted throughout the Northern California Current (NCC) on the ecology of Pacific salmon (Oncorhynchus spp.) indicates that variable ocean conditions affect the community composition of zooplankton in the nearshore environment which, in turn, can affect the quality of prey for fish, sea birds and mammals. Interannual variability in...
Nearshore hypoxia within the Northern California Current (NCC) system is a seasonal phenomenon caused by coastal upwelling and occurs mainly during late-summer and early fall. The effects of low oxygen levels on fish and invertebrate communities, particularly during early-life history stages, however, are poorly known for this area. I investigated...
As the second largest river in the U.S., the entrance to the Columbia River is home to some of the most extreme wave conditions on the Pacific Coast. Winter storms commonly generate waves 6-8 m in height, which in combination with strong tidal currents, can produce dangerous navigation conditions. To...
Wind-driven coastal upwelling brings subsurface water onto the central-Oregon shelf after the spring transition each year. This cold and salty source water is oxygen-poor, yet above the hypoxic threshold, dissolved oxygen < 1.4 ml l⁻¹. Once on the shelf, dissolved oxygen (DO) concentrations of upwelled near-bottom waters are modified by...
Temperature, salinity, and current measurements extending over one
or more tidal cycles were made at various times during the three-year
period 1960-1962 in Coos Bay, on the central Oregon coast (43°20'N,
124°13'W). Dissolved oxygen was measured occasionally. The three
regular sampling stations are shown in Figure 1. Station A is...