This paper describes a method for measuring nearshore ocean wave characteristics with a land-based, long-period vertical seismometer. The wavemeter system has proven to be highly reliable and produces continuous wave observations at low cost. It is now operational at six Coast Guard stations along the Oregon and Washington coasts; data...
This repository item contains the files needed to reproduce the results reported in the published work entitled "Runups of unusual size: rogueness and variability of swash" in the Journal of Geophysical Research. As described in the publication, the results described within it pertain to simulations of wave runup for various...
Surface waves play a vital role in air-sea interactions, and being able to easily measure them in-situ validates and improves predictive models. Here, we diagnose surface wave properties in the Bay of Bengal using modified vertical SOLO II profiling floats, which are regularly used as part of the Argo ocean...
Rip currents pose a serious danger to visitors of bathing beaches; they are also an important process in surf zone circulation. Haller et al. [2014] demonstrated that shore-based X-band radar can be used to compliment in situ measurements of rip currents. However, little is known of the underlying radar imaging...
Underwater robots beneath ocean waves can benefit from feedforward control to reduce position error. This thesis proposes a method using Model Predictive Control (MPC) to predict and counteract future disturbances from an ocean wave field. The MPC state estimator employs a Linear Wave Theory (LWT) solver to approximate the component...
Wave energy is emerging as a new potential source for renewable energy generation. However, wave energy technology is not currently cost competitive with other more mature renewable energy sources such as wind and solar. One approach that researchers and developers are taking to reduce the cost of wave energy is...
This dissertation has focused on the charateristics of bubbles generated by breaking waves and the feedback of wave-current interaction on the forcing mechanism of low frequency wave especially basin seiching wave. For the first study, Optical image capture observations of breaking waves in a laboratory surf zone are presented. The...
Radiation stresses, defined as the excess flow of momentum due to the presence of waves (Longuet-Higgins, 1964), are the main drivers behind the cross-shore and longshore forcing that results in wave setup, set-down, and longshore currents (e.g. Svendsen, 2006). Longshore currents entrain and transport sediment and therefore play an important...
Oregon State University conducted a series of laboratory experiments to measure and quantify the near-field wave effects caused within arrays of Wave Energy Converters (WEC). As the waves and WECs interact, the WECs generate radiated waves; these effects vary with the location within the array. Analyzing the near-field waves will...
