A complete solution, exact to second-order, for wave motion
forced by a hinged-wavemaker of variable-draft is presented. A
solution for a piston type wavemaker is also obtained as a special
case of a hinged-wavemaker with negative infinite draft. The
existing Stokes inviscid theories for mass transport is extended to
include...
Problems associated with quantification of deep water wave kinematics
and dynamics are examined. Summaries of Stokes' theory and Dean's
stream function theory are reported. A computer algorithm is developed
to solve the hydrodynamic characteristics for Stokes' fifth and third
order and linear theories. Tests are initiated to verify the results...
Two types of linear random wave simulation methods are investigated;
viz., (1) Deterministic Spectral Amplitude (DSA) and (2) Nondeterministic
Spectral Amplitude (NSA). These linear simulations are extended to
second-order in a perturbation expansion in the frequency domain by
utilizing a Fast Fourier Transform (FFT).
The nonlinear interaction matrix for waves...
Theoretical b:::-eaking criteria for progressive surface gravity waves
are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these breaking criteria.
The measurements of Komar and Simmons are presented here for the first
time. Only three theoretical breaking criteria have been...