In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of
drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two
waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
Field measurements of onshore and longshore velocities in the surf zone have been obtained on Martinique
Beach, Nova Scotia, for the purpose of investigating the dynamics of the infragravity band (0.003-
0.03 Hz) of the spectra. A total of35 data runs were obtained during a 1-week period. Of particular interest...
This repository item contains the files needed to reproduce the results reported in the published work entitled "Runups of unusual size: rogueness and variability of swash" in the Journal of Geophysical Research. As described in the publication, the results described within it pertain to simulations of wave runup for various...
Synchronous runup records were collected from 14 locations spaced irregularly over a 7 km stretch of
a low-slope beach. The significant runup height, herein defined as the significant vertical excursion of
water level at the shoreline, was typically 2 m, 60% of the incident significant wave height at the
breakpoint....
The spatial and temporal variability of nearshore sand bar morphology is quantified using a unique data set
spanning 2 years. The data consist of daily time exposure images of incident wave breaking on an open coast
sandy beach which may be used to infer bar morphology (Lippmann and Holman, 1989)....
This is an author's peer-reviewed final manuscript, as accepted by the publisher. The published article is copyrighted by Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and can be found at: https://doi.org/10.2112/SI65-235.1
Published June 1991. Facts and recommendations in this publication may no longer be valid. Please look for up-to-date information in the OSU Extension Catalog: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog