Graduate Thesis Or Dissertation
 

The analysis of directional wave spectra from current and pressure measurements

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https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/graduate_thesis_or_dissertations/h415pd44k

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  • Directional wave spectra have been estimated in this study based upon simultaneous subsurface measurements of current and pressure. Two previously developed methods, the stochastic and deterministic approaches, have been reviewed and restudied. It is demonstrated by means of the Correlation Theorem that the stochastic and deterministic approaches are, under certain conditions, identical. In order to improve directional spectrum results obtained from the combined stochastic/deterministic approach, a new method, the geometric approach, has been developed as part of this research effort. The geometric approach matches Fourier transformed wave properties to frequency dependent wavelet pairs in each frequency interval. The amplitude, direction and phase of each wavelet are uniquely specified by equating kinematic and dynamic properties for each frequency component. Wavelets evaluated in each frequency interval do not have an artificially imposed phase constraint in the geometric approach as they have in the stochastic/deterministic approach, providing a more realistic model to represent the directional properties of ocean random waves. This study shows that the geometric approach provides more reliable predictions of the water surface one-dimensional spectra as well as directional spectra. Finally, some semi-empirical equations are proposed and combined to represent the directional spectrum model. A least square error minimization analysis is used to quantify empirical equation parameters. The resulting directional spectra obtained from alternative methods are compared based on either real ocean data or computer simulated data.
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